The day started very early–5:30 AM–for our pickup by Oriental Balooning! The Time Travelers had very generously included me in their ballooning adventure; my first experience was remarkable, and I was curious as to what the return would be like.
The balloon companies are remarkably organized, with a military precision: pickup at the hotel in a van, drive to launch site in the dark, meet your pilot, sit down at a table and have coffee and croissants, go to your balloon in the gloaming and watch as the balloon is filled, first with cold air from huge fans, then with hot air from the massive blowers.
Each basket holds 12 passengers, in this case 11 time travelers and the partner, Kerry, of the pilot, Richard. Both of them are Brits and extremely nice.
We were soon aloft, marveling not just at the pagodas strewn across the landscape, but at the 24 balloons rising majestically in the sunrise.
We floated gently across the archaeological zone; the feeling of being suspended and wafting at the same time is really remarkable. We were soon back on the ground where we were treated to a glass of champagne, fresh fruit, and various tchotchkes.
We were back at the hotel by 8:40 and joined our non-aeronautic friends for breakfast. Then it was back in the bus for another day of pagoda education! We started the day at Nan Paya, well known for the beauty of its sandstone carving, both inside and out. It was built in tribute to the Mon king captured by the Burmese empire by his grandson, and melds Buddhist and Hindu iconography.
Right next door is Manahu Paya, the temple supposedly used to hold the Mon king under house arrest. It contains three enormous Buddhas–two sitting and one reclining–crammed into inappropriately small spaces. The result is an acute claustrophobia, said to be the replication of the king’s psychological state.
From these two twinned temples we drove to New Bagan, where we stopped at the Moe Moe Lacquer workshop. Cetana tours have been coming here for many years, and Moe Moe presented the time travelers with small lacquer boxes to mark their visit. Good shoppers that we are, we more than repaid her investment!
Next stop was the really horribly ugly tower built by Tay Za, a crony, near his resort called Aureum. It does have a great view, and the food is pretty good, so we had lunch there and enjoyed the pagoda panorama.
The bus took us over dusty back roads through the heart of the archaeological zone, with glimpses of pagodas we had never seen. About a third of the crew had seen enough pagodas (perhaps for a lifetime) and got out at the hotel for a little sunbathing; the rest of us went on to two of the very greatest temples, Dhammayangyi and Sulamani.
Dhammayangyi is the largest temple in Bagan, really an awesome sight.
It is noted not just for its size, but for its exquisite brickwork. It is said that if the King could pass a needle between bricks, the bricklayer would lose an arm. We walked around the inside ambulatory with its towering arched vaulting.
David, Rory, and I had of course already visited Sulamani, but now we shared it with our friends; Sulamani is worth two circuits, one inside and one outside. We all paid close attention to the detail work: rows of glazed tiles below and stucco medallions above.
We found Kathie ensconced in a shrine, showing the “Know No Fear” mudra, and finally convinced her that she should come along with us.
Back at the hotel for some well deserved relaxation, we enjoyed the sunset over the Irrawaddy from the poolside bar. Dinner took us to the Amata Restaurant, where there is a marionette show over dinner. Everyone enjoyed the puppets and puppeteers, and the Chinese food was OK too.