Our driver picked us up bright and early for a long day, more ruins, more folk art! We were heading southeast, first stop Mitla, the second largest archaeological site in Oaxaca.
While Monte Alban was most important as the civilization’s political center, Mitla was the main religious center. The name Mitla is derived from the Nahuatl name Mictlán, which was the place of the dead or underworld. Mitla is unique among Mesoamerican sites because of the elaborate and intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs that cover tombs, panels, and even entire walls.
Although the site is huge, only two sections are fully excavated and open to visitors. The first is called the “church group” because of the Catholic Church built on the site taken to be the entrance to the underworld. This group is organized around the main temple, with priest’s residences radiating out from the sanctuary. The intrepid explorers are standing in the center of the temple, which once had a roof.
The second, larger section of the site is organized around a complex called the Palace or Grand Hall of the Columns.
The palace itself is the largest structure at the edge of an enormous patio; the patio contains entrances to numerous tombs, a number of which can be explored–if the explorer is willing to do a good bit of crawling!
Fron Mitla we steered for Tlacolula, which hosts one of the largest and most famous markets in the region. The market was indeed huge and zoo-like, with the aisles packed with locals and visitors. Sue picked out a large woven bedspread before we hustled back to the car in order to continue our journey.
Next stop was Teotitlan Delle Valle, the most famous rug weaving pueblo in Oaxaca. Our driver suggested a particular weaver which seemed at first like a good choice. The weaver was very welcoming and took time to walk us through the entire process, demonstrating the making of the natural dyes that color the rugs.
There were some beautiful things here, but they weren’t cheap and Sue managed to restrain me. Not so the Bradleys, who decided on a lovely medium sized rug.
Back in Oaxaca, we met for drinks at the Quinta Real, a lovely hotel located in a restored convent. The rooms and facilities flow off of a series of arcaded courtyards…the perfect site to end another great day.
Well, OK, we actually ended our day back at Criollo. We had started calling on the hour every hour by mid afternoon and, miraculously, they had a cancellation. The meal again had seven courses, but every course was different than the night before. Another magical evening to end our stay in a place to which we hope to return…often.
