Talland Bay, Looe, and Plymouth, 7.5 miles, 70.4 total for the walk. Tuesday June 18, 2024
We went separate ways, briefly, after the typical filling British breakfast. David had injured his leg before the start of the trip, and in typical Gonzo Bradley fashion, he had tried to walk it off…for 70-odd miles. So discretion finally overcame valor, and Patti and David cabbed it to Looe.
The remaining ambulatory patients returned to the path. A very steep grassy path leads from the hotel gardens down to the bay and our oh so familiar trail.
The walk to Looe was pretty short–just over four miles–and exceptionally pleasant. We stopped to chat with a number of walkers, patted their dogs, and cooed at their babies; we were in no hurry!
There were a few sharp climbs, but they were short.
We were in pretty good spirits.
The path rolled along, giving us nice views and remaining kind to our knees.
As we approached Looe, we saw some kayakers far below playing in a rock garden.
Just before reaching Looe we arrived at the village of Hannafore, where we found a wonderful beach cafe and indulged in pastys, chili, pulled pork, and delicious Cornish ice cream.
Looe is divided into two parts by a tidal river that serves as its harbor.
Near the mouth of a river is a peculiar structure they call a banjo pier.
Near the town center, a Victorian bridge joins the two towns.
And once across that bridge, we hopped on a bus bound for Liskeard and a rail connection to Plymouth….and our walk was over!
Or so I thought. It was about a 30 minute walk to our hotel, and Sue, with less than five miles in her legs, wouldn’t think of a public conveyance. So we were treated to the exceptionally unattractive eastern side of Plymouth, little more than a series of parking garages and modern office buildings. There were a few remnants of former times, like the once-grand Duke of Cornwall Hotel.
After a wrong turn or two, we reached our destination, the Moxey Plymouth.
Quant, huh? But it turned out to be just fine: cheap, friendly staff, small but well designed room. We had a drink in the bar, which, in best millennial style, is open 24/7!
We then had the best dinner of the trip at a place called Fletcher’s.
I had found the place because it is listed with Michelin as a “bib gourmand,” good food at fair prices. And the food was far better than merely good: superb duck liver terrine, lamb loin or slow-roasted pork belly, and one of the best desserts in a very long time, a raspberry soufflé with creme anglaise. Wonderful end of hike meal among dear friends and fellow adventurers!