We boarded a local train for what in some ways was the highlight of the entire trip for me, a visit to Horyu-Ji, probably the most important Buddhist temple in Japan.
Horyu-Ji contains the oldest wooden structures in the world. Founded in 607 as a seminary, some scholars believe it was rebuilt after a fire in 710, but who‘s counting? Whatever the date, there is agreement that the buildings and the extraordinary collection of Buddhist art is true to the Asuka period, the age of its founder, Shotuku Taishi. It was Shotuku who declared Buddhism the state religion of Japan. He located Horyu-Ji in the village of Ikara, where his favorite consort was born. And it was here that he retreated after renouncing the throne.
After the crowds in Kyoto and Nara, we were astonished to have Horyu-Ji almost to ourselves!
The Chu-mon or Middle Gate, from ca. 710, houses three horrible Kongo Rikishi, guardians of the Buddhist universe.
The Garan, or inner courtyard, is brilliantly balanced. The pagoda is about twice as tall as the Kondo and the two structures occupy about the same spatial volume.
The Kondo houses some of the most famous statues in Japanese art. The Shaka Trinity (Shakamundi, the historical Buddha, accompanied by two Boddhisatvas) are the work of Tori Busshi, the first known Japanese artist (he signed the statues).
The statues have some of the frontal awkwardness of early stone carving, but the faces are extraordinarily humanized and individual. The face of the Buddha is in fact said to be a portrait of Shotoku. This stands in stark contrast to the generalized features of the Buddhas carved just a hundred years later.
The treasure hall offers an astonishing collection of early Buddhist art, centered around the Kudara Kannon, a large wooden Kannon sculpture that has an enigmatic smile like that of, well, the Mona Lisa.
Although visitors are only permitted on a small part of the vast temple precinct, we did visit the To-in, or East Temple. The temple centers on the Yumedono, or Hall of Dreams, built on what is said to be Shotoku‘s residence—where he said he had dreams of answers to particularly challenging passages in the sutras.
This, the oldest octagonal structure in Japan, was built in 739 by his successors in order to appease Shotuku‘s soul for the massacre of his entire family after his death!
We were all deeply impressed by Horyu-Ji. The beauty of its buildings and art, together with their great antiquity, is enormously moving. I would compare this experience to that of San Francesco in Assisi, the only Christian church that retains this feeling of spirituality.
We boarded another, somewhat less crowded, commuter train for the short hop to Osaka. Another city, another stunning modern station.
We had a bit of trouble getting oriented; we knew that our hotel was near the station, but Google Maps failed us for once. We were saved yet again by Japanese courtesy: a lady walked us all the way through the station and out to within sight of our hotel, the Hanky International. The hotel was huge, a strange mixture of modernity and someone’s idea of western opulence.
But the rooms were large and very comfortable. It was late in the day so we took a bit of a siesta before striking out in search of dinner.
Osaka at night is magical. We hadn’t expected to be so taken with the city, but it was love at first neon light.
We found a simply and very popular sushi joint and had a terrific meal.