Villa Romana del Casale and Mandranova, Thursday, May 9, 2024
We had a long drive northwest to the remains of a huge Roman villa near the town of Piazza Armerina. The opening kilometers were rather desolate, but as we rose into the mountains, the views again became spectacular.
The term “villa” really doesn’t prepare one for the vast, rambling structure that was, in the first century AD, the center of an enormous agricultural estate. All written records have been lost, but scholars speculate that the donor was either a member of the imperial family or a high-ranking Roman senator. The villa is famous for its mosaics, which cover 3500 square meters of flooring and are said to be the largest and richest remaining examples. I won’t guide you through the villa, but will provide instead some examples of the remarkable artistry that was preserved when the entire complex was covered by a landslide.
The major group of mosaics cover a broad hallway that separates the more public areas of the villa–the baths, guest apartments, dining halls–from the master’s apartments. It is generally referred to as “the Great Hunt,” although the animals in question are not being killed; they are exotic animals being captured and transported, presumably for games in Rome.
Just as well known is the depiction of women’s athletic events.
Just outside the master’s apartment itself is a broad semicircle with charming scenes of putti at sea.
In the apartments themselves are scenes, sometimes violent, of domination.
And the artists weren’t above a bit of eroticism.
As we entered the final room, an enormous basilica probably used as a throne room for receiving guests and supplicants, the rain began to drum on the roof built to protect the mosaics. We ran for it, but were thoroughly soaked by the time we were halfway to the car, so we ducked into the site restaurant and, avoiding the rather sad looking pizza and pasta, indulged in…potato chips.
The rains soon let up, and we headed west southwest for our next destination, the Azienda Agricola Mandranova. The driving was a bit challenging at first, with huge puddles on the small roads we were traversing and then, just as the rain let up, google routed us over three roads in terrible condition, forcing us to proceed at 5 mph between potholes. That behind us, we were soon rising into some gorgeous mountain scenery, with twisting and plunging mountain roads.
We gradually descended toward the south coast, which led us to our home for the next couple of days, the wonderful Agriturismo named Mandranova. During this, our second stay, we learned a good deal more about the property from the owners, who are intensively involved with both the hospitality offerings and the farm work. The couple who own the estate bought it in the early nineties. By 1995 they had planted 2500 olive trees; they now produce about 40,000 liters of oil a year. They renovated the old farm buildings, including the olive press, and opened as an agriturismo in 2006.
I realize that I have not yet included the traditional picture of our rental car. Here she is!
Connie and Vladimir had a gorgeous, recently completed small suite.
We had a very modern suite with a lovely private terrace.
Before we could begin to reacquaint ourselves with the principle glory of the place–the grounds–we got to know the dogs who owned the place. Anita is a somewhat anxious but ultimately loving Rhodesian Ridgeback.
Lara is a beautiful and very affectionate black German Shepherd. She is also the most unusual dog we’ve ever met. She has an autistic fascination for shadows. Here she is staring at a flower shadow.
Lara often hung out on our terrace or in our room, and followed us on our walks around the property…punctuated by long bouts of staring at shadows.
Mandranova does everything it can to keep you outside, soaking up the uniquely tranquil atmosphere. The outdoor seating areas are as inviting as ever, even on a rather cool day.
Sue was of course eager to introduce the B’s to the pool area.
And a walk back through the olive groves is always a treat.
Everything about the place is very informal. If you want something, you walk into the kitchen and one of the staff will take care of you. We had so far eaten only the famous Roman potato chips, so we ordered a plate of cheese and bread which came with the estate’s delicious olive oil. And we drank a lovely Etna Rosso from Tenuta di Fission.
After some serious relaxation, we met at the main building for dinner (too cool, alas, for dinner outdoors). Dinner was wonderful: zucchini soup, pumpkin risotto, mackerel filet, and panna cotta. We settled on a Grillo from Marco di Bartoli…light, refreshing, delicious.