Hvar and Korcula, Monday, June 15, 2026
We woke up to another stunning day. We got underway just as we sat down for breakfast at 8 AM, sailing along the southern shore of Hvar. Despite the incredible steepness of the land, the island has a string of lovely vineyards (they produce a red wine distantly related to Zinfandel).
We pulled into a sheltered cove on the island of Scedro for a bit of swimming, but Ivo convinced us that there was a better beach further on. To get there we had the first real wind of the trip; the sailors estimated the perceived wind (wind plus our speed) as 25 mph. Here’s Vladimir advising the captain.
We’re heading across a long stretch of open water for the long peninsula called Peljesac, with a large peak at its end.
As we neared the peninsula, we sailed into a protected cove at the end of the peninsula and dropped anchor.
Vladimir was too eager to wait for the launch and jumped right into the water. Six of us boarded the launch for a beach a half mile away.
The beach was spectacular, with bleached white rocks and turquoise water.
Ivo and Matteo waited for us in a shady pine grove while we all went for a swim in the crystalline water. The feeling of well being was indescribable. The beach was also clearly known to the wealthy. Ivo knew about the boat below: it sleeps 12 and charters for a mere $200,000 for a week.
The wind had really kicked up on the way back; we got wetter in the boat than we had while swimming…or so it felt. I finally got a decent shot of the Malena.
Mario outdid himself for lunch! A wonderful tomato soup with dumplings; tuna steaks and ratatouille; panna cotta with frutti di bosco. It was a short hour’s cruise to Korcula, the main town on the island of Korcula.
Ivo was able to get a slip in the marina. It turned out to be quite an operation to get our old boat backed up to the dock, and an even bigger operation to get the gangway down and secured. Patti called her picture below “spectators at the docking sports event.”
The gangway finally down, we headed for the old town.
Korcula is an ancient place. The Illyrians settled the island around 1000 BC. Greek settlers from Korfu came in the sixth century BC; it became part of the Roman Empire in 219 BC, and part of the Byzantine Empire in the sixth century AD. With the fall of the eastern and western empires, Korcula’s strategic position on the maritime trade routes ensured that it remained a pawn in the games between Venice and Genoa, as well as the target of various Slavic kingdoms. It was under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.
You enter the old town through an impressive square tower.
We stopped for a very light dinner and drinks right in front of the Cathedral, San Marco.
We shared two small pizzas and a bottle of a wine so local that it is only available on the island: Grk. A really delicious, pure, racy wine, Grk is the best wine I’ve tasted from Croatia. After our now traditional gelato dessert, we wandered the narrow streets in the gloaming.
As we emerged at the bottom of the central street we found ourselves at the fortifications on the sea side of the old town.
There is actually a wine bar atop this bastion, recommended by Ivo, but when Cindy, Patti, and Sue ascended the narrow stairway (with a narrow ladder at the top) they found it totally packed.
Night had fallen by now and we wandered through and alongside a number of unusually attractive restaurants and ending at the harbor.
Back at the boat, I settled in for a grappa and a bit of football (Egypt versus Belgium), but was soon in our cabin writing what you’re reading now.